It’s 5:45 am and I am up and ready to surf a world class left hand wave called Uluwatu. I leave Kuta and head out, there is little to no traffic so I’m thinking this is going to be a breeze. I get to the airport and it starts to sprinkle, I pull over donning my rain jacket, which I brought in case of this occurrence and continue onward. Another 5 minutes pass and now I’m having a hard time keeping my eyes open as the rain is pelting me in the face (notice I say rain not sprinkles) so I stop briefly and put on my sunglasses to act as a windshield. Thankfully I did because not a min later it is pouring and I am charging through puddles, being splashed by oncoming traffic all the while getting drenched by sting drops of rain. I think about turning back but by this time I’m half way, my Colombia Waterproof Jacket as been compromised and I’m soaked; so why turn around? I just kept my speed under control and tried to avoid the rivers crisscrossing the road.
As I pull up to the stairs leading to Uluwatu the rain stops; a grab my stuff and head for the beach. No one is there, just me on top of the rock overlooking the break trying to dry off a bit. The swell is apparent but it is all over the place and the wind is playing havoc with the ocean surface. The 2 outside sections aren’t working and the inside section is a random mess with little to no form. Another surfer arrives as I decide to get breakfast at the one café that’s open now; we talk a bit and he decides to paddle out. I watch him as he fights the current and then catches two, non-fun, waves on the inside section. I finish breakfast and I can tell that it is starting to clean up but none of the sections are connecting and basically the waves are pitching and then fading into nothing, 5 more guys show up and head out into the water. On top of all of that the tide is 30 min away from its peak for the morning and it starts raining again; I decide I’m over it. (In hindsight I probably should of surfed it but….)
I go to pay for my breakfast, a total of 36,000 Rupiah ($3.60 USD) and the guy, Richard, points out that I only gave him 10,000 Rp.; I thought I gave him 100,000Rp, it’s hard to tell the difference they don’t use commas on the bills. Anyway I go digging for the rest of my money and realize I’m going to be 3000 Rp short. Not a huge deal since 3000 Rp. Is only like 30 cents but the fact is that I’m short and have no more money; wait this plays into the story later. So Richard is cool and trusts that I will come back and pay him another day, I will by 100x. I know I’m coming back to Bali after Lombok so I jump on the bike and do some reconnaissance. There is a hotel overlooking the break and I discover its $50USD/night, only $10USD more than what I’m paying, I look into another place and it’s $110USD/night, the guy thought a bit before he quoted me and he read me wrong. After that I checked the rest of the other world-class spots that line the peninsula heading back to Kuta and they were all tiny but with less wind and more organized. I knew Liegean beach is going to get all the energy of the swell and it’s been glassy in the morning for the last 3 days, so I race back.
I’m almost half way back and out of nowhere a Polisi on a motor bike comes up along side of me and asks me to pull over. I’m guessing it is a shakedown since I was behind a dump truck going down a winding hill; he asks me for my driver’s license. I don’t have it, I brought nothing that I did not absolutely need, he has a solution I pay a fine and he gives me a piece of paper so next time I can just show it instead of a license. Well I don’t have any money either! I tell him if he wants to go back to Kuta with me I will pay him, he looks at me like I’m crazy telling me it’s too far. Well I guess he believed me and I assume I really didn’t do anything wrong because he let me go! I had been warned about the Polisi and getting a shakedown, so I thought I’m going to have to go to the station or something, but I guess the Polisi are just as lazy in Bali as the rest of the world. Returning to the hotel I grabbed my other board and surfed till I couldn’t find another shoulder to surf as the overhead sets became complete closeouts in Leigean. And it all happened before noon!



